- Darkvoice 336se Vs Bottlehead Crack Headphone Amp For Sale
- Darkvoice 336se Mods
- Darkvoice 336se Vs Bottlehead Crack Headphone Jack
- Darkvoice 336se Tube Rolling
Banish the cold and colourless transistorized amplification from your listening room and say hello to a festival of vibrant 'sonic colour' courtesy of the DarkVoice 336SE headphone amplifier. I own quite a few headphone amplifiers, both solid state and valve, and my solid state Musical Fidelity M1 PAP headphone amp is a more rhythmically.
USB Interface: Stello U2, Nuforce uDAC2 ║ DAC: Stello DA100 Signature, Keces DA-151 MK2 Headamp: Darkvoice 336SE, Bottlehead Crack ║ Headphones: Sennheiser HD650, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-M50.
Darkvoice Vs Bottlehead
Apr 06, 2019 Tube Rolling in the Crack. The Bottlehead Crack circuit uses two tubes. A 12AU7 input tube serving as a voltage amplifier, directly coupled to a 6080 power tube as a cathode follower output. The two stereo channels each use half of the tube. The included tubes are of decent quality and can be expected to provide years of great sound. A Bottlehead since 2009: S.E.X. 2.0, Stereomour (2A3), Eros & Seduction Phono, Crack, Quickie 1.0 (sold), Klipsch Heresy III speakers, Grado SR-325e headphones. Welcome to Bottlehead. Here you will find vacuum tube based amplifier, preamplifier and headphone amplifier kits, speaker kits, finished high end tube audio products, reel to reel tape machine upgrades, parts, and one of the finest support communities on the web. Crack is our version of classic OTL headphone amp designs of several years ago that were hailed as some of the best sounding of their day. Comparison of our prototype with the $10K Bottlehead reference headphone amp was a bit disturbing. It showed us why the OTL headphone amps from a few years back were so highly praised.
Schiit Valhalla 2 vs Bottlehead Crack 1.1 + Speedball with HD 650's
Remotedroid pro apk download. Hey.
So I've been looking forward to stepping my game up, and after a month of research, I found that the 650's are exactly what I want.
Darkvoice 336se Vs Bottlehead Crack Headphone Amp For Sale
However I'm struggling with the selection of a tube amp to drive them before I order them.
I have always thought that I preferred bright sound, by recently I've wanted to try the warm sound of a tube amp.
I'm looking for a neutral but fun to listen sound. Prioritizing fun over clarity. I'm not looking for an analytic sound
I've heard they are both great, but I would like to hear everyone's opinion on both of 'em or how do they pair with the 650's
Darkvoice 336se Mods
One pretty big point to consider is that the Crack is currently on a pretty decent sale. Meaning that I could get the Crack + Speedball for the same price than the Valhalla 2.
Thanks again every one :)
I need your advice on wither to get the DarkVoice 336SE vs APPJ 1502A Tube Amps (in terms of sound, temps concerns, build quality)
Hi, really need your advice and thoughts on the aforementioned amps.
Here's my thoughts and concerns on the DarkVoice: Build quality and excessive heat (my room can reach 31 Celsius with AC off which I can handle). As reviewed by his greatness /u/ZeosPantera :D , sound is an excellent fit for my needs.
My thoughts on the APPJ 1502A: Requires lots of mods (relatively, since I don't know how to solder) to as sound good as I want it to be.
Any how, if the DarkVoice amp is a safety concern, then my only option is to get the woo audio WA3 or WA6, which I would like your experience if they produce similar excessive heat.
Darkvoice 336se Vs Bottlehead Crack Headphone Jack
Thank you all and best regards. Movado watch serial number check.
Darkvoice 336se Tube Rolling
Well, both are OTL (output transformer-less) tube amps, made by Little Dot in China. The Mk IV SE is supposed to be an upgraded version of the Mk III, with a premium price. So what are the differences?
[1] upgraded tubes - instead of stock GE5654s, you get a pair of Mullard M8100s, and also updated 6H30P-i power tubes. It should be noted that my LD Mk III came with stock RCA EF95 tubes (which was a pleasant surprise, because they were 70s vintage. I might have lucked out).
[2] The 1/4 plug on the SE is a Neutrik
[3] The SE has 'upgraded' RCA connectors
[4] The SE has pretty gold tube protectors
[5] The SE has a different volume knob
In theory the Mk IV SE is supposed to have a different ALPS pot than the Mk III, but every internal shot I have seen of the SE has the same pot as my Mk III.
David ZheZhe (Little Dot seller) claims the SE has 'premium circuit component upgrades in key signal path locations'. As to what these upgrades actually are (apart from the ones I noted above), your guess is as good as mine.
So are the differences worth the extra money?
As you start going up the Little Dot product ladder, you begin to slowly start losing the price-performance advantage you have with the Mk III.
You can get M8100s in abundance on ebay for $20-40 for the pair. The upgrade to the Elektro-harmonix 6H30P-i isn't really a deal unless you get a NOS Elektro-harmonix, since the new 'reissued' EH 6H30P from the Reflektor plant are, well, reissues.
If you are upgrading power tubes you might as well get a couple of Novosibirsk Gold Grid 6N6P-i from the 70s/80s (before the Wall came down!) for $10-15 for a pair (keep in mind that driver tubes typically last longer than power tubes, and the Gold Grids with the 'OTK' quality symbol were engineered to last a while).
Who should get this?
Those that want to experience OTL tube sound, and don't have the money to get a Woo Audio WA3, a Woo Audio WA2 or an Eddie Current Zana Deux.
Also those who own a Sennheiser HD600 or HD650, the pairing is excellent.
Keep in mind that the Little Dot Mk III is a better bang for your buck than the Mk IV SE. Also keep some money aside for tube rolling.
Who should not get this?
Folks getting their first amp (get a solid state amp!) or those who run orthodynamic headphones as their primary headphone (bad pairing, as are the Beyerdynamic T90 and T1).
Also folks whose budget will not extend to tube rolling.
And this certainly isn't 'endgame' material, if that is your goal.
Folks wanting the ultimate price performance ratio should probably look at the Little Dot Mk III. And those who want a transparent amp without coloration or distortion should not touch this with a 10 foot pole.
Who are the competitors?
The Bottlehead Crack, of course, although the Crack is a DIY OTL tube amp. And the Valhalla 2 is a serious competitor (gain switch, preamp out) especially if you are looking for a more transparent sound, as is the Woo Audio WA3 (although that costs about 2x the cose of the Mk IV SE).